There are over 600 species of Ficus, most of them tropical and evergreen, although some, most notably F. carica, the common fig, are deciduous. Ficus produces a unique "fruit" which is actually an inverted flower. Not all Ficus produce edible fruit.
Ficus is one of the most loved bonsai for many reasons. It is an excellent tree for beginners, as most species of Ficus are fast growers, tolerant of most any soil and light conditions, make fine indoor bonsai, and perhaps most importantly, are remarkably forgiving of those just learning bonsai watering techniques. Most Ficus grow "banyan" roots naturally; this feature is often showcased by styling Ficus in dramatic air-root and root-over-rock styles.
Lighting: | Most Ficus will grow decently in low light, but thrive in high light conditions. |
Temperature: | With the exception of F. carica, most Ficus are tropical, and require temperatures above 55F. An excellent choice for an indoor bonsai. Indoor Ficus appreciate being brought outdooors during summer. Does not like draughts. |
Watering: | Moderate, increasing in summer and decreasing in winter. Many Ficus are very tolerant of being over or under watered, which makes them ideal for beginners. Ficus likes a daily misting to maintain humidity. |
Feeding: | Every two weeks during growth, every 4-6 in winter, using a half-strength plant food or a bonsai fertilizer. |
Repotting: | Every 2-3 years, although some will grow rapidly enough that yearly repotting may be necessary. Ficus is the single most forgiving bonsai in terms of repotting season. The best time is before a new growth spurt, especially in spring, but Ficus can literally be repotted any time of year if reasonable after-care is given. Roots can easily be pruned by half. Basic bonsai soil is recommended, although Ficus tolerates many soil conditions. |
Styling: | Ficus are suitable for most styles of bonsai, but are especially suitable for styles which make use of their property of extensive rooting, such as air-root and root-over-rock styles. Ficus can be used for all sizes of bonsai, although, obviously, the small-leaved species make the best miniature bonsai. Leaf pruning can be used to reduce leaf size. Ficus can be wired, but become quite stiff when lignified, and thus are best wired while the shoots are a bit green. Watch carefully to see that the wire doesn't bite in, as Ficus is a very fast grower. Prune back to 2-4 leaves after 6-10 leaves have grown. Ficus will bleed a milky latex profusely. Many books recommend use of cut paste or other sealant for this reason. I've tried it, and found it to be more trouble than it's worth, since the oozing latex makes it difficult for the cut paste to adhere. In any case, when the latex dries, it forms its own natural seal. Gustafson recommends using a dull pruning tool on Ficus, as a clean cut made by a sharp tool tends to bleed more than a ragged- edged cut. |
Propagation: | One of the easiest plant to root from cuttings; although the specifics for maximum success vary with species, it's always worth sticking them into soil for the heck of it, unless you're already overrun with baby Ficus! My success rate, doing nothing special except an initial dose of Superthirve, is at least 80%. Very large diameter cuttings of Ficus can be successfully rooted. Air-layering is also quite easy. Ficus can be grown from seed, but require heat and humidity, and easily succumb to mold. I recommend growing from seed only if you desire a rare Ficus that can't be purchased easily. |
Pests etc.: | Scale seems to be the biggie, followed by eelworm, black fly, thrips, anthracnose fungus and various forms of rot. Some ficus will lose leaves if overwatered or given too little light (see addenda for individual Ficus care). |
A very easy plant to cultivate. Needs only 1000 Lux, although it adapts to both higher and lower light levels. Loves "warm feet" and thus can even be kept on a shelf above a radiator, although this is not necessary. May lose leaves if there is too much water or not enough light, but it tends to be very tolerant of adverse conditions. Can be leaf pruned during the main growing season to reduce leaf size. Wiring is possible at any time, but check frequently to make sure the wire isn't biting in. Will develop air-roots readily; I have found that a monthly dose of Superthrive can be given safely and will result in the profuse growth of air-roots. Cuttings are best taken in summer, but will actually root most any time.
addendum for Ficus buxifolia
Can be kept indoors year round, although it prefers to be taken outside in summer. Likes a winter temperature of 64-75F. Needs much light (2000 Lux is ideal, although it will do with less). Will lose leaves if overwatered. It is usually best to prune after a new branch has developed 10-12 leaves. For main branches the technique is different: F. buxifolia developes very thin branches and it may be necessary to allow 30-40 leaves to grow before a main branch is pruned to its proper length to encourage thickening. Cuttings are best taken in summer.
addendum for Ficus carica
Needs about 1500 Lux. Can be grown successfully indoors, but requires temperatures of 41-46F in winter to induce dormancy. Allowing the leaves to droop slightly before watering aids in leaf reduction. May go 2-4 years between transplantings. Forms very thick branches which are best wired when young. The best time for wiring is in early spring, before new growth begins. Leaf pruning to reduce leaf size is recommended. The plant will also dwarf leaves naturally after some years in a container. Take cuttings in spring, before they become lignified.
addendum for Ficus ilicina: laurel fig
Can be treated much the same as F. benjamina. A monthly dose of Superthrive can be safely given, and will encourage the formation of banyan roots.
addeunum for Ficus microcarpa: banyan, Green Island fig
A very robust tree that does well both indoors and out. Can tolerate low light, but grows more strongly with high light. Grows extensive banyan roots, and will probably need to be transplanted every two years. Leaf pruning is used to reduce leaf size; a total defoliation can be performed at the end of spring on healthy specimens. Wait until the branches have lignified slightly to wire. Summer is the best time to take cuttings.
addendum for Ficus natalensis: Natal fig tree
A very low maintanence tree: tolerates low light (1000 Lux), dry soil, and even being placed in a hot, dry spot, for example, near a radiator. Temperature should be between 59-75F, and near the cooler end in winter. Can take vigorous root pruning, and will probably require transplanting after 2 years. Cut back shoots after 12 leaves have developed. Can be wired from mid-late summer, but wait until branches are lignified. Cuttings are best taken in summer, and root more successfully when bottom heat is applied.
addendum for Ficus religiosa: Bo tree , peepful fig and Ficus virens: spotted fig
Needs much more light (2000 Lux) than the average Ficus. Prefers to be outside when temperatures are above 60F, but needs protection from wind. The tree will lose leaves if it is too cold or has too little light. Wiring is best done from autumn to spring on lignified branches. Will form a thick, spreading nebari - spreading the roots radially when transplanting will encourage this. Leaf pruning may be used to encourage reduction in size. A vigorously growing plant can be defoliated twice a year. Cuttings are best taken in early spring, with bottom heat betwen 71-79F.
addendum for Ficus retusa: fig, banyan fig, Indian laurel
Much more sensitive during repotting than the average Ficus. Root pruning should be gradual in temperate climates. Do not attempt to wire or prune extensively for three months after transplanting. Sudden changes of temperature may cause all the leaves to drop.
addendum for Ficus sagitata variegata: trailing fig
Does not have the thick, rubbery leaves of most Ficus species, which make it more sensitive to underwatering. Do not give this plant Superthirive, as it results in odd distortions of leaf shape. Wiring may cause enough stress to result in leaf loss, so attempt shaping gradually.
Recently purchased a small over-lava-rock bonsasi of an pretty 10" high, 8" wide, medium-sized leaf tree that was identified by the seller as a "cherry banyan". This tree does have small berries on each of the drooping limbs. But I can find no reference to this variety of banyan. Could a bonsai scholar please help me with an information lead on the cherry banyan or a comment and the scientific name of this interesting little tree? Thanks for any information you can provide. Duane Johnson Jayhawk333@aol.com
Hi! I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice on our poor ficus tree. It's been losing leaves for quite a long time and not replenishing them with much new growth. Alot of the branches are barren and overall the tree doesn't look so hot. We think it's somewhat normal that it should lose leaves in the winter time but not as many as it has. We keep it about foot away from an outside sliding door which is partly opened during the day but the tree is not in front of that. We water it about once a week or less but not soaking it through. We do give it "liquid food" once a month mostly. We've had the tree for about 4 years. We've repotted it twice and it's in a pot about 16-18" across. Okay, if anyone can give us advice on this, we appreciate it! You can e-mail us at HVAGOODJ@aol.com. Thanks!!! :-)
This more of request than a comment, but is just that I really need it. I need to know where can I buy a PEEPUL TREE ( ficus religiosa), it's very important that I do so please if anybody can help me drop me a letter on dedadlus@aol.com, by the way I'm in Boston. Thanks
We have just planted a Port Jackson Fig in our front yard,which overlooks the beach.We selected this species (ficus rubiginosa) on advice that it is quite salt tolerant. Is it possible to propogate this tree from seed? How and when does the seed appear? Any information would be much appreciated.
We have just planted a Port Jackson Fig in our front yard,which overlooks the beach.We selected this species (ficus rubiginosa) on advice that it is quite salt tolerant. Is it possible to propogate this tree from seed? How and when does the seed appear any information would be much appreciated.
I recently bought a small (30") ficus and carefully repotted it. In the following weeks, most of the leaves have fallen off and many of the now bare branches appear to be dead. Too much water? Inadequate light? I have been told that this is common with ficus, and is due to the "shock" of transplanting. Is this true? Can it be avoided? Thanks for any advice you can give. Rolf Hamburger NYC rham@interport.com
I have had a ficus benjamina (I think) for over 15 years. I prune it, feed it and generally it has thrived in my apartment living room. Lately, it is weeping a sticky clear substance over the leaves, and the adjacent floor and wall. Since it did not appear before the last two to three months, I am puzzled. Can someone help me before I am forced to dispose of it. Thank you.
How can I acquire a PLANT of Ficus benghalensis? Multiple searches have only yielded seed sources. PJ
What about the Ficus elastica?
I've just recently received a lovely multi-trunk ficus, but I have no idea what species it is. The 1 1/2 -3 inch leaves are a deep green and almond-shaped (with some severe tapering on the end.) I'm primarily concerned about proper care; it was a very special gift. I'm in North Florida where the summer temperature is quite high and the winters are brisk. The tree keeps losing leaves and I'm awful concerned. Right now the tree is on a porch (sun in the morning, shaded the rest of the day), though I could bring it inside and find an open window. I've heard that the leaves are poisonous to cats, please clear this up, or I'll have to keep it outside.
I'VE JUST PURCHASED A MULTI-TRUNK FISCUS, SPECIES UNKNOWN BUT BELIEVED TO BE BENJAMINA. PROBLEM ARISES FROM MY HISTORY OF CONSTANT TOTAL LOSE OF PLANT. MY SPECIAL CASE IS LIVE IN TUCSON, AZ. THIS DATE OUTSIDE TEMP GOES TO 103 DEGREES, INTERIOR TEMPS HELD AT 78 DEGREES BY AIR CONDITIONERS. ROOFED PATIO FACES EAST, FRONT OF HOUSE FACES WEST, MANY WINDOWS ON BOTHE ELEVATIONS. TELL ME HOW TO KEEP MY FICUS HAPPY AND GROWING IN TUCSON DURING ALL SEASONS ....PLEASE. I'LL WATCH MY E-MAIL FOR RESPONSES. THANK YOU. RING
Hi there, I┤m from Englsnd, living in Germany regarding "cutting branches": When the rubber-milk appears at the cut, just put on it a small piece of toilet-paper (size about diameter of cutted branch) for two days. That will almost at once stop "bleeding" as the amount of bleeding is influenced by the "surface" of the cut which is enlarged by the paper. Yours, Roland
hi all!
i'm an italian guy that is very interested in bonsai...
i own a ficus retusa that my brother gives me 6 years ago.
this year (now) have done some particular fruits...On italian magazines
(that i always read!) i haven't ever found informations about
this fruits which are growing regularly on my bonsai.The
dimension of this fruits is correlated to the dimension of the
bonsai.
i will be glad to receive some informations about this
"unknown" fruits.
P.S:excuseme for my awfull english
P.P.S:could u help me using a simple english?
Maurizio Comanducci
Regarding the 'banyan' term: The term originally refers to Ficus benghalensis, which have many aerial roots that develop into additional trunks. Now it's refer to any Ficus sp. that have the same habit (i.e. have a lot of aerial root which subsequently develop into pillar trunk). And originally the term applied to one such tree near Bandar Abbas, Iran, beneath which banians (a member of a Hindu merchant or trader caste) had built a pagoda.
Hi Sabrina! Just a note in passing on Ficus panda... seems it is a cultivar of F. microcarpa (sure fits the description!) per recent posts by Brent and others (around date 2/18 to bonsai list). Might want to do away with its separate species listing, or cross-ref it to Ficus microcarpa 'Panda' Anita (half a PandA :) )
HELP!!!! The moss around my ficus was bright green when I Brought her home about 1 month ago....Now it's brown..What am I doing wrong????
I have just purchased another Ficus;(Exact name unknown)in a root over rock style.I have a smaller one,but the price on this one I could not pass up One salesperson said $35.00 so went back an hour later,after talking with wife,and talked with another salesperson who sold it to me for $15.00.so anyway,I need a few comments as to how often to repot.The tree is around 18"s tall,but cannot determine the exact age.The only thing I have done so far was water and add alittle B vit.supplement,and added alittle mossy carpeting.Any help would be most gracious. Thanks Larry Cols.Ga.
The basic hemiepiphytic form of a fig tree is that the seed sprouts up in another tree, and then sends roots growing down the host, and strangling it. This is what F. aurea, the strangler fig, does. The banyan is hemiepiphytic, but it has an additional feature. It sends aerial roots hanging straight down from its branches, which ultimately wind up in the ground. These aerial roots grow until they, in turn, become full fledged trunks. Then, the branches can keep growing from this new trunk. The cycle can repeat indefinitely. Further, the original trunk can die off, and have only the new aerial root trunks surviving. I believe these aerial root trunks are called pillar roots. Some of the other strangler figs get the banyan style aerial roots from the branches, but most are not capable of becoming fully independent trees. The roots I have seen on Moreton Bay figs were not aerial. Its roots were standard ones that start at ground level. However, they grow along the ground surface, and swell upwards. Thus, they are crawling along the ground like big snakes. But, it is not in the air. I am not sure whether or not there are other Moreton Bay figs which also get the aerial roots. Ian Kerfoot